Cabochard by Gres

Picture this a fine leather glove, fitted perfectly to the hand that wears it, now picture a dainty pink powder puff, the most lady like powder puff filled with the daintiest of pink powder, a cosmetic from the 1950s perhaps. Now imagine you are in a room in an old house by the sea side, the sun is coming in, it is early summer and a fresh breeze is coming in. Now imagine the three together, picture that leather gloved hand picking up that dainty pink powder puff and applying it to a beautiful, ageless face.

That is Cabochard. Leather, tobacco and oakmoss made feminine by aldehydes and the most feminine flowers and freshened with orris root and sea breezes

Sweet, leathery, and utterly gloriously feminine. Complex as fuck, glorious.

Illusions Noires Le Premier Parfum Eau de Minuit by Lolita Lempicka

Weird plastic vanilla licorice, strange, sinister, I feel like there are violets but there are no violets. It’s a horror movie sort of a scent, not a blood and gore horror movie, but a slow, subtle psychological horror movie scent… no, that’s not right. This is a horror novel scent a scent like House Of Leaves or We Have Always Lived In A Castle, there’s something off and dark in this scent. It smells like creeping insidious madness, not the loud raving kind, but the wrong thoughts that slowly creep in and take over without you noticing.  A whiff of trans-3-methyl-2 hexenoic acid perhaps?

I am conflicted.
I don’t think I have ever been frightened of a perfume before.

Jovan Silky Rose: Super awesome steal for patchouli/rose lovers.

Is rose, sweet juicy fruit and yummy orange blossom on a base of patch that really reminds me of Thierry Mugler’s Angel, honestly it could be a summer Angel flanker, and so even though it doesn’t last more than an hour for 12 bucks for 3.4 oz it’s kind of an amazing steal.

It’s very fresh and pretty and wearable but not boring, and because it’s not boring I’m scared to death it will be discontinued. 

Silver by Al-Rehab

Fresh and cool, like iced tea with lemon and a little fruit of some sort. It’s androgynous and ultra chill. It’s not a boring fresh, a fascinating fresh, a unique almost other worldly, mystical misty faerie morning fresh, but not a cloying sweet children’s story book faerie, a folklore morally ambiguous slightly scary faerie, a chilly and beautiful force of nature faerie. This is a beautiful spring morning that might turn to freezing rain you might get lost in.

I am delighted and fascinated.

Mad Madame by Juliette Has A Gun

This makes me think of a sweeter, rounder version of Sa Majeste La Rose by Serge Lutens. Lutens’ version is tarter, greener, a little more astringent, this is sweetened with amber and black currant and rounded out by leathery castoreum and warm tolu balsam. It’s cozy and a little dirty, kinda like sunday morning before you shower… kinda like a sunday morning roll in the hay before you shower, when the bed is all warm and nice and they’re all warm and nice and it’s just a warm nice, kinda musky experience.

It starts sharper and greener (but still not as sharp and green as the Lutens creation) and warms and softens, leather and musk coming in, other flowers blooming in the background but the rose always remains. It also somehow reminds me of a less geranium heavy version of Vicky Tiel’s Sirene